Uisangbong 의상봉 & Baegundae 백운대 Circuit, Bukhansan National Park 북한산국립공원, Seoul, South Korea
Top class scenery in Seoul’s Bukhansan National Park, on the best circuit in the park climbing Baegundae Peak (836m) via Uisangbong Peak.
Bukhansan National Park sits on the northern edge of Seoul, and offers some of South Korea’s most dramatic scenery, all accessible by public transport. The route to the spectacular high point of Baegundae Peak (836m) over Uisangbong Peak (502m) is probably the best in the park. Returning through Oryudong Valley adds variety, including a couple of temples and various traditional buildings. Expect granite cliffs, beautiful valleys, fortress gates and Buddhist temples.
The first third of this walk requires some scrambling, although there are always railings and chains to help. The views start very early, and just keep coming. Korea’s often hazy weather can be a bit limiting, but even then there are plenty of interesting closer landforms and other sites to make this a very satisfying walk. But choose a clear day if you can, and I’d definitely aim for a week day. Weekends are very busy. Track notes at the end.
Uisangbong 의상봉 & Baegundae 백운대 Circuit, Bukhansan 북한산: The Scenery
Peaks viewed from in town as you walk into Bukhansan National Park. This shot was actually taken in the afternoon (the light was better), but these views certainly get you excited in the morning as you walk from the bus stop. Bukhansan’s tallest peaks at the back. The views started early, and the weather was at its clearest. The tallest peaks in Bukhansan, including Baegundae (836m), and the valley we returned down. Viewed from near Uisangbong Peak (502m). My wife Sophia there. Lots of up and down in the first half of the walk. A big panorama taking in the ridge and some cityscapes in the distance. Sections of the wall have been rebuilt, but there were also remnants in their original condition.
You have to climb up and over a few peaks. Lots of viewpoints therefore. The undulating ridge. Our ascent route on the left, and the park’s high point on the right, still a fair way off. A temple and big Buddha down there on the right.
A few pics of various gates and a ‘shelter’ (top left) in the middle section of the walk. You can visit twelve in all, but some were being reconstructed, and a couple require side trips which we didn’t do.
Our return route was down the Oryudong Valley, pictured. Jindallae, a Korean Rhododendron. Baegundae up there. It frankly looked unscalable from down here, but sure enough there was a way up. That big rock marks the saddle below Baegundae.
Baegundae Peak
Perhaps my favourite vista from the summit of Baegundae (836m). Looking south-west I think. In the morning we climbed the prominent ridge from right to left. Views roughly north. A panorama east, including Insubong on the left. Climbers on Insubong (810m). This peak can only be climbed, not hiked.
Animal interlude…
There were lots of feral animals this time that I didn’t see ~18/19 years ago when I lived in Korea. What surprised me the most were the wild dogs, apparently descendants from people’s pets and so not necessarily domesticated. Some of them were scavenging. The wild cats were all over but there were some on the summit. Watch them because they try to steal your food. The puppy pictured was in one of the temples. Super cute.
Returning down Oryudong Valley
Returning down the Oryudong Valley Track, with Baegundae towering overhead. Descending through attractive forest, and meeting up with Oryudong Stream. We visited a couple of temple complexes on the walk, both in Oryudong Valley. The first was quite small and signs in Korean suggested the monks couldn’t help with water or toilet facilities etc. (There is nearby spring water you can take). The second was a bigger complex with a tall standing Buddha. We visited by mistake but it was well worth the visit. There were other traditional buildings on this return route, including some that had recently been built. Spring colours. River scenery towards the end.
Track Notes
We walked anti clockwise from the Bukhansanseong Visitor Centre entrance. It’s a steep climb/ scramble to Uisangbong. Continue along the ridge past many fortress gates all the way to a saddle below Baegundae. Climb the peak and return to the saddle, retrace your steps for a few minutes, then take the right hand option down Oryudong Valley back to the start.
Getting There
We walked anti clockwise from the Bukhansanseong Visitor Centre (북한산 탐방지원센터) entrance. (See the embedded Google map below).
In 2023 you can take a train to Gupabal Station on line 3. Use exit 2 and catch either bus number 34 or 704. You’ll probably see other hikers waiting. Get off at the Bukhansanseong Fortress stop and walk a short distance to, and then up, Daeseomun-gil (Road) into the park.
Continue up the road for a few minutes. You’ll pass the return route on your left. The steep climb/ scramble to Uisangbong starts a little further along the road on your right. There are signs in Korean and English the whole way so navigation shouldn’t be too hard.
The Walk
Follow the trail up and over Uisangbong, and continue along the undulating ridge over a few peaks and past many fortress gates all the way to a saddle below Baegundae. You’ll be joined by many others on the final short and steep ascent on rock.
From the summit we returned to the saddle, and further retraced our steps for a few minutes to a junction: take the right hand option down Oryudong Valley back to the start. For some reason this route was very popular with foreigners.
The dotted line is a short diversion we took (by mistake) which crosses the river on a road bridge and visits a temple and big standing Buddha (“Amitasa”). This is worth it if you have the time. Earlier on there is another small temple you can visit just a minute’s walk off the track.
We took about 6-7 hours with most time taken in the first half of the walk. There are numerous other options in the park, and since you’re likely to take public transport you don’t need to start and end in the same place like we did.
