Our first time in Seoraksan National Park was one of our enduring hiking highlights. This time we did what is supposedly the best and hardest walk in the park—Dinosaur Ridge 공룡능선—so named for the jagged peaks along its spine (looking like a Stegosaurus I guess). It was bound to be a classic walk with stupendous scenery lifted right out of a Daoist painting, especially in Autumn / Fall, whatever the conditions…
Alas, the conditions weren’t the best. We had left a two day window to give just a little flexibility regarding the weather, but there was rain for days either side. Nevertheless, we chose the least worst day and set off. Despite low cloud and very little visibility on the ridge, the close up scenery was still excellent, and we did get top-class views at a viewpoint on the way up in a very short weather window. The return route along Cheonbuldong Valley, which we’d done on our first visit, still knocked my socks off. We had nice autumn colours but I think they were more vibrant on our first visit, which was at the same time of year in 2017.
It’s a challenging route, but I managed it with an injured foot (plantar fasciitis we think) in wet weather, so not too bad. Plenty of middle to early old age Koreans (50s and 60s) do the walk. Having said all of that, I had sore legs the next two days and my foot was not great. Track notes are at the end.
Dinosaur Ridge 공룡능선 Circuit, Seoraksan 설악산: The Scenery
Climb from Biseondae 비선대
(I took a lot of photos quite hurriedly, and this one, like a few others, was not entirely in focus. I touched it up using some software I bought.)
A very cute Siberian chipmunk:
Dinosaur Ridge 공룡능선
Cheonbuldong Valley 천불동계곡
Have a look at more photos from the valley, and a few of the temple near the main entrance in my post from 2017.
Track Notes
My wife told me they tend to recommend walking this route anti-clockwise, for better views on the ridge, although we did see lots of people walking clockwise as well. I’ve read a few different estimates of length and elevation gain/loss, but AI estimates 20-24km with roughly 2000m (or maybe more) change in elevation. The ridge is undulating so it adds up to a fair bit over a slow 5km.
It will likely take you 10+ hours with enough time for lunch, photos and a couple of short side trips. We were out over 12 hours in wet weather. If you are fit and in a hurry you could do it faster than that, but at peak times the route can get busy so you might end up stuck in queues at bottlenecks and hence not go any faster than this.
From the start to Biseondae 비선대
From the main entrance to the park (Seorakdong Sogongwon; see the Google Map below) walk up the sealed road through the temple complex, over the river, and take a signposted left to head towards Cheonbuldong Valley. (The right options go towards Ulsanbawi). Continue on the wide and obvious track until it eventually narrows down a short while before the large bridge at Biseondae (비선대) Peak.
Climbing to the ridges
After crossing the bridge, and to walk anti-clockwise, take the signposted right hand option to begin a steepish climb up towards the ridgelines above. Before too long take the right hand side trip to visit an excellent viewpoint, and if you like, continue up a steep staircase to visit Geumganggul Cave (금강굴) with Buddhist paraphernalia in it.
Dinosaur Ridge 공룡능선
Hopefully you’ll get some views on this next bit. Return to the main route and continue climbing to Madeungryeong Pass (마등령). Follow the signs/ keep to the left to continue along Dinosaur Ridge (공룡능선). Expect quite a bit of scrambling aided by railings and the occasional rope. In the wet we found the railings most risky, as our hands slipped on these (- aim for the vertical poles to secure your hand in place). The rocks themselves are generally grippy enough. Don’t forget to check out King Kong Bawi, which is in a spectacular spot at a gap in the cliffs. We couldn’t see much at all of the surrounding area but it was still quite dramatic.
Cheonbuldong Valley 천불동계곡
After Dinosaur Ridge you can visit Huiwoongak Shelter (희운각대피소) on a short and easy side trip to use the toilet and perhaps make lunch in the communal kitchen. Return to the main track and follow the signs for Cheonbuldong Valley (천불동계곡; Thousand Buddhas Valley apparently). You’ll begin a steepish descent then it will be jaw dropping scenery until you arrive again at Biseondae. Return the way you came.
